Caminar ala medieval

ooo, I do apologize that you had to wait for soo long for the culminating ending, I ran out of time in the library in Fisterra, then in Santiago there were so many things to do (shopping ;-)) that I had no time to go to internet.

jep, you read it correctly, it's Fisterra. and jep, you remember correctly, too, I said I will be staying in Santiago for two days and I did. so, did I take a bus? nope. did I walk? jep. and you won't believe that. I made it in two days!!! ... yes, you are free to say I am 'loca'.

Santiago - Vilaserio

the morning was beautiful, the eucalyptus forests smelled wonderful, I met a Spanish couple who were told to say hello in Olivier's name, and the Pull was very strong. considering all this I decided I may as well try to do the long part on the first day (my plan was 5 days: Santiago - Negreira - Santa Marina - Olveiroa - Redonda - Fisterra). when I came to Negreira the albergue was already full, so it was an easy decision to go on to Vilaserio. it was its 35km, however, and lots of it on tarmac, so I was pretty tired when I finally arriver to a full refugio in a former school. I couldn't believe it, this refugio is almost never full. one of the Spanish girls lent me her thin matress and I made my bed on the table, the only place left. but the night was very long, the table incredibly hard, and I am sure I got some bruises on my hips and other bones. in all, I started at first dawn (which is not that early in Spain, only about 7.30).

Vilaserio - Fisterra

I was full of energy even after the unfortunate night and with the goal of two days walk somewhere in the back of my mind - I was not yet quite decided where I wish to sleep tonight, the first port was Olveiroa, the second Redonda -, I walked quite fast. I watched the cold morning mists linger in the valleys and welcomed the warm wind on top of the hills. I surprised a four-legged animal with a wide bushy tail - I think it was a fox! I eat breakfast in A Mola then made another rest at the church with the galleried cemetery in Corzon. here I decided to skip Olveiroa and go to the next albergue in Redonda (Corcubion). although the route till now was very tarmac, the portion between Olveiroa and Cee runs over almost mountains and high moors and is very very beautiful. I knew I could make that. and there was also this strange urging feeling to go on and that strange energy that did not let me rest for too long.

the scenery on the climb from Olveiroa to Hospital is amazing, I can't believe I missed all that on my first Camino (then the day began when I reached Hospital)! there I fortified myself with bocadillo con queso y tomate and met two Spanish pilgrims, who (again) asked me if I will go all the way to Fisterra that day. I said that probably not because I am already quite tired. but the strange energy increased over the moors and somehow the thought of continuing to Fisterra didn't want to be subdued. when I first glimpsed the rocky peninsula in the distance a strange longing filled my heart. so there really was no other option and while drinking and resting at San Pedro Martir I decided to continue. suddenly the urge calmed down and I was at last more at peace. and could continue in a more tranquil way, although still in a faster pace.

I took another rest in Cee and went shopping in Corcubion. I bought dark cholocalte with almonds, thinking that I might be able to enjoy the sunset over Fisterra bay if I reach the viewing point in time. my legs didn't feel tired and I took this as a proof that my decision to continue was right. there were still two more hours to the viewing point which I reached not in time for the actual sun setting but in time for the lovely rainbow of warm evening colours. and for a group of dolphins playing and jumping out of the sea in the bay! I sat on the rock and watched and watched, and felt complete. I reached my destination. I didn't need to go any further.

when I made the last kms to albergue in Fisterra it was plain night. amazingly, there were still beds left! I was tired by then, of course, the day has been long and I walked 14 hours. but I felt very happy, and very calm. it was as Olivier has said. when you become the Camino, anything can happen.

and bloody true! that last kms were the worst, most painful 5kms of my entire route! I thought I would just fell apart, my joints were in such pain. but I did not give in and walked all the way and reached Santiago and the sun came up and I was so happy I can't even tell you! :-)

Villafranca del Bierzo - Pradela - Fonfria

yp, I shouldn't have walked all the way to Villafranca that previous day. tendenitis hit in again. so, since I thought that 12kms of no villages and water and services were a little too much risk for such a condition, and I didn't really want to walk 20kms on tarmac (I remember too well that that kms were the reason for my tendenitis four years ago), I took the bus to Pradela to avoid as mush of that tarmac as possible. I was still left with a good bit of it, but managed.

the climb to O Cebreiro was again very beautiful, with sweeping views back to the valley we came. I poked around the village a little, to take a better look at palozas, a man repairing a tached roof, and a man doing something with onions, but it felt too touristy to stay. so I tackled on and made it as far as Fonfria, to the albergue I already knew. with no kitchen, I took dinner, and we had very good pilgrim minestra (with meat which I avoided) and tarta de santiago.

Fonfria - Samos

the start of Galicia proved nice and the infamous weather hold. the descend was as beautiful as the climb. I saw three castles on Triacastela's church, the only evidence left of their existance. but otherwise the small town is very small and without pilgrims seemed quite empty. this time I wanted to do the alternative route to the Samos monastery. the first part through the gorge was along the road, but after the first village we were on beautiful rural lanes flanked with old chestnut and oak trees on one side and mossy stone walls on the other. I took a little detour to see a 14C fortified mansion, now in restauration progress, but once it is done, it will look amazing. I peeked inside as mush as I could, and saw bunk beds in one of the rooms - maybe there will also be an albergue?

the route brough us above the monastery and we had a fine view over the huge complex with two arcaded courtyards and a church on the first floor. there is also a painting of a nun with the face of Sofia Loren and a keystone with the inscription ¿que miras, bobo?' (what are you looking at, fool?). the albergue is actually inside the monastery itself, the beds are in one huge dormitory, but separated with panels so each pilgrim has its one little private compartment. the bathrooms are a bit austere, though, and the water only on the first floor.

Samos - Barbadelo

we had to leave by 7.30 and it was good that the first few kms of the route were along the road because it was still night (and I have no torch). then there was again a beautiful part through forests, past a farm where they still drive the hay in old wooden kind-a-wagons, and past tiny villages with tiniest churches. then we were on the road again. a nice German bicyclist walked me through the territory of some huge barking dogs (they didn't seem to be too vicious, though) and although the countryside was tranquil and green, the road was hard on the feet. I learned later that there is also a path to Hospital but I didn't see any turn-offs.

it was sunday and Sarria was surprisingly quiet (and all shops closed, of course). I continued to Barbadelo where I stayed in my first Xunta albergue. it is in a former school but quite comfy. the kitchen, though, is empty, no pots, no plates, no cutlery. with Unni (from Norway) and Gite (from Denmark) I visited finely decorated local church, once part of a monastery.

Barbadelo - Gonzar

this was Galicia, up and down and up and down over myriad of little stream valleys and bigger hills, in different shades of green, but luckily still with no rain. noone could tell me the way to the Valle del Poio (a detour I wished to make) so I continued on from Portomarin and ended in Gonzar. I treated myself a little and stayed in the more expensive private albergue where the bunk beds were huge and high, and there were thick warm blankets. I sleept very well. there was also free laundry service which I took advantage of, and my clothes did dry up during the night.

Gonzar - Pontecampaña

I tried the bar-pension (now also albergue) in Portos, to see if they have become friendlier (four years ago you couldn'y go to the toilet unless you slept there), and asked if I can go to the toilet. no, unless I buy something. so I said 'no, thanks' and watered some grass.

I made an off route trip to Vilar de Doñas, a chapel that was once part of a nun's monastery (doñas), which has beautifully preserved 15C frescoes. but not of these doñas, as many guides will tell you, they are Juan II and Isabel de Aragon, and principe Enrique. it is true that they all look a bit feminine, but that is supposed to be the fashion in painting at the time. the chaple also belonged to the templars, and later became the possesion of the order of santiago. as the templats here didn't completely dissapeared - they somehow merged in with the order of santiago and were allowed to exist in a way - you can see a mixed cross on one of the pillars. curiously, there are also a few celtic symbols, an eternity symbol on the doorway, a tree of life on the base on one of the apse pilars, and some other unidentified ones.

in Pontecampaña I stayed in another private albergue which was once a farm. the dinner was extremely good, with a vegetable and lentil soup, mixed vegetables and a vegetable omlettes for vegis, two kinds of meats for omnivores, salade, and desserts. and the hospitalero treated us with a queimada, a kind of an alcocholic brew made with a fire, which he stirred with the lights turned off so that the flames could be seen, chanting something in Gallego, I think. there was also a ram skull.

Pontecampaña - Ribadiso de Baixo

hospitalera explained me how to het to Pazo de Ulloa and Castillo Pambre, another two sites off route. there weren't difficult to find but both are in a sorry state of deterioration. the Pazo still retained a bit of the air of grandour it must have once had, and Castillo looked amazing with its five quadrangular towers, now overgrown with grasses and flowers. it is still lived in, I saw an old lit lamplight in one of the windows.

that day was, like previous one, a bit showery at times, but there was still enough sun to dry us up in between. I got a bigger shower in Melide so I did no visiting, and happened upon another unfriendly bar in Boente, where I couldn't go to the toilet unelss I bought something. I had in mind to go as far as Arzua but when I reached the restaured 15C pilgrim's hospital in Ribadiso it looked so peaceful in the afternoon sun that I decided to stay. incredibly, there were still some beds left and I slept in the most beautiful part - in my opinion - up in the attic, which has exposed stone walls and was the warmest during the night. the toilets are outside and the night was cold.

Ribadiso do Baixo - Arca

the weather still hold in the morning but began to rain properly later on and washed us all the way to the end. my dress was wet up to the waist (despite my pelerine) and barely dried up till morning. and went to Xunta albergue which was so-so, the floors weren't very clean, the showers with no doors whatsoever, and the air not too good. but the kitchen had quite a number of pots, two forks, and even two plates and bowls. so I made dinner. I met Monika (from Austria) and Ingrid (from Germany) I met a few days back, and we agreed to go together tommorrow, to try our luck with an old lady in Santiago and get a bed in the centre.

the night, however, was awful. not only the Spanish celebrated their near arrival in Santiago, and the ligth were on half the night, the air kept getting fouler because it was cold outside and the windows were closed, and maybe I ate something that was out of date. my stomach was getting increasingly sick during the night, up until the time that I went to the toilet. but I have difficulty with vomiting. so I brought myself a chair, opened a window (oh, the fresh air!) and sat there so long that I threw up my dinner. I felt a little better instantly and went to bed again. I couldn't fall into sleep untill I opened one of the windows and let in some air.

Arca - Sanitago

even so I felt sick by morning. but I didn't want to stay here, it was very unappealing. I wanted to go to Santiago that day, and was determined to reach it. Monika and Ingrid said they will stay with me and watch over me. Monika lent me her two sticks so I walked on all four. at least it wasn't raining. I don't remember much of the first part through the eucalyptus woods, except that the smell which was so wonderful the last days seemed very unappealing today. in San Paio we stopped and they said that it might be better if I stay in Lavacolla in a pension, Ingrid was even prepared to pay it for me! I said that don't want to, I want to go to Santiago! apparently the threat helped because I felt better afterwards and till Monte Gozo walked quite well. the sun came up when I was resting there. I said that they should go on to find that old lady as there were only 5kms left. but what 5kms! the descend was ok, but when I hit the paved and tarmac roads of Santiago, the pain hit in. every step, every move hurt. I thought I the route will never end. to me it seemed I was walking slower and slower. I am sure I must have made some pretty strange gimaces. I never felt so bad in all three months and 10 days I was on the road. when I finally reached Praza de Obradoiro, the tears just streamed down my face, I was so happy I made it!

Santiago

Monika and Ingrid did find an old lady and even got a single room for me. I slept all previous afternoon and all night and felt much better in the morning. I think that what I had yesterday must have been the beginning of a sickness, it usually feels that way. I decided to stay two days in Santiago. and then continue if the weather prognosis is good. today is raining. heavily. tommorrow, they say, will be no different. ugh! I really don't want to walk in the rain, all wet, not being able to see the country around me, or take pictures. so, I hope.

take care!

oh, yes, the chocolate was very good. 53% dark one, with almonds. mmm.

Astorga - Rabanal del Camino

for me, quite long tarmac and along-the-road section out of Astorga ended in Murias de Rechivaldo, where I turned off road to visit Castrillo de los Polvazares, much famed for its picturesqueness. the route there was certainly fine (dirt and grass), despite my near escapade to a dog-full kind-a-farm. but the still almost sleepy village with its orange houses was almost too well restaured. it lacked in an authenticity a bit.

the second along-the-road slog then a climb to Rabanal was better and I was so fast that albergue Gaucelmo was not yet even open. it is taken care of by the British association of st James and it was very nice to hear proper english spoken. very friendly, and with a huge orchard. but not the former hospital of st Gregorio as it is said in all the guidebooks, it was a school before. the hospital was a little higher or a little lower, depending on who I asked.

Rabanal del Camino - El Acebo

the first really beautiful mountaneous day since the Pyrenees! the path/track climbed over pastures and through bushes and even through forests. the views to the east and south amazing. pure joy. :-)

at Cruz de Fierro I had to wait 10min to take a photo without pilgrims, as a group of Spanish bicyclists occupied it for groups photos shootings.

Tomas from Manjarin drew me a map how to reach Peñalba de Santiago from El Acebo, and I had the chance to see the 11 o'clock templar oration. with a very special belssing for me, for taking the route less travelled and more beautiful. and more ancient. it was very special.

very friendly albergue parroquial in El Acebo was taken care of by a German and a Swiss lady, the German lady particuraly chatty and always with a smile. we were granted a beautiful sunset, as well, with all the palette from yellow to deep red to violet.

El Acebo - Peñalba de Santiago

the biggest adventure started in the morning. I didn't follow Tomas' advice for a path because one of the villagers said it is quite difficult to follow. so I took the road. but I should have taken the path, it seemed to be even waymarked. Herreria (roman-medieval-19C iron foundry) was closed but I did see the big water wheel. the road to Compludo was still in shade, unlike the climb out of it, which was all in the plain sun, hot despite the morning. when I reached the top, a fine view opened. Espinoso de Compludo is on the same hight as El Acebo, I only had to descend to and climb of a steep and deep valley in between. I asked for directions and had no problems finding the path over the pastures to San Cristobal (there was even a signpost somewhere in the middle).

in San Cristobal I rested in the shade of a beautiful ancient 'tejo', said to be at least 3000 years old. the peace under its branches was very special.

the route out of San Cristobal to Peñalba was also not difficult to find, though I did hear that people did get lost here. you couldn't get lost, it is all straight. I met a car with a poodle hanging out of the window, with its ears in the wind. and then came the last turn around a ridge. and I lost my breath. the view was incredible! mountain slopes covered in green bushland and above them rocky ridges, and a narrow valley with a silver twisting road, and a village with dark silver roofs perched on one of the slopes, with one of the rocky ridges towering above. oh! I just looked and looked.

when I managed to continue I couldn't wait to reach this beautiful village. even the first few looks proved that it is just perfect. still lived in, light grey stone houses with dark grey slate roofs and brown balconies, mostly restored, but with taste, and so lovely, and from everywhere the mountain peaks peeking between the houses. oh.

I found an albergue turistico, in one of the houses, very friendly, with fruits and self-service breakfast, and maps of the walks in the area. and the lady unlocked the church for me, too, though it was officially closed. very elegant it was, with its moorish arches (no pics allowed, sadly). it has original frescoes and a whole lots of medieval scribblings along the walls, monks and dogs included.

I was soo very happy to come here. :-D

Peñalba de Santiago - Ponferrada

in the morning I almost decided to stay one more day. :-)

the climb out of the village to the cave of san Genadio is pretty, but the Valle del Silencio is not silent at all, the torrent there is very loud and playful. and then the climb to the mountain pastures on 1300+m, with more amazing views back to the village and along the valley. a surprising labyrinth of stones greeted me on top. and then the incredibly steep descend to a gorge with incredibly picturesque brook, and a roman road to the village of Montes de Valdueza. here Mirasol opened the huge church for me, because the monastery, another ancient center of christianity in the area, was under restauration.

another (or perhaps the same) beautiful roman road lead me along the slopes where I met a shepherd with four dogs and sheep lead me down to the valley floor. here I felt like a true medieval pilgrim. lost in these incredible places, but still with a road under my feet that will lead me to a safe place.

more valley walking and climbing and descending and climbing and desceding over beige and brown hills (where I lost Ruta de los Monjes) to San Esteban with two lovely carved and painted wooden doors. and more climbing and a looong track, which at least provided a fine view of Ponferrada at the end, to descend to Ponferrada.

a magnificent but very hard day, I reached albergue in Ponferrada at 20.15.

Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo

wanted to visit the Templar castle in the morning. but it opened only at 11h and I decided that that much I do not want to see it and continued the route. opposite of yesterday, it was quite boring, flat, tarmac, almost all till Cacabelos, which is actually quite a lovely village with a long main street. from Pieros the route has been rerouted and now runs between hilly vineyards, and is 3km longer. I didn't know that or I would have decided to stay in Cacabelos and not pushed another long day. but here I am, in another pretty little town, in a pretty albergue La Piedra, resting my feet.

take care!

not just yet, but in the afternoon, I am going to visit the museum and sample some of the products. mmm. looking forward to it.

Leon - San Martin del Camino - Hospital del Orbigo

so, I decided that, considering my state with tendernitis again, I am taking the bus to avoid as much tarmac as possible, and bused it to San Miguel del Camino, thus overrunning almost all other pilgrims, trodding the uninteresting suburbs of Leon. I did feel a tiny little bit guilty. :-) but this escapade did enable me to walk all the way to Hospital de Orbigo. I took the original and now less recommended road along the main N120 - and I can tell you that it is really not interesting, even all the albergues are on the busy main road (though the first one in San Martin was very friendly).

in Hospital del Orbigo I stayed in the beautiful and welcoming albergue parroquial with wooden and painted porticoed patio and fine kitchen. I treated my feet with a bath of salt and vinegar and made a tour of the famous bridge called Paso Honroso, with 19 arches from 10C to 19C. once I will have to be here for the big tournament at the end of June.

my medieval look impressed two French pilgrims so much that they invited me to dine with them. and afterwards I had a really good laughing evening with Hanya and Norbert, a young Polish couple.

Hospital del Orbigo - Astorga

a relieving walk over hills covered in oak forests and arable fields. on the plateu before Cruceiro de santo Toribio, in a former stable, an organization raised a table with free/donativo refreshemnts for pilgrims - I enjoyed some juice and a really good fruit cake. just before the 22% climb to Astorga a new bridge over the railway prolonges the route for about 400m, so long and numerous are its ramps.

here I am staying in the albergue municipal with a magnificent view over the countryside to the east, that was a hospital already in the 11C. I already visited Museo Romano with a unique huge supporting vault for the most important temple in the middle of the forum (we got free tickets in the albergue). and now I am waiting for the afternoon hours of Museo del Chocolate.

if one of the computers will be free in the evening I will tell you how good the chocolate is. :-)

take care!

I am really starting to get annoyed by this fact. I think it's ridiculous and very unfair that admirers of history and art, and tourists, cannot take visual  memories home with them. and show them to their friends and family.

Leon

I devoted the whole day to wandering along Leon's streets and visiting its sights. I like its streets very much, perhaps even a bit more then those of Burgos. they are not so posh, with many smaller and more welcoming houses. I visited the cathedral's stained glass (no pictures) - I was glad it still had the same tranquil, and magnificent at the same time, appeal I remember - and its museum (no pictures) with the biggest chest I have ever seen (12C). and san isodoro's beautifully frescoed panteon with unicorns for capitals (no pictures, but that is reasonable, as frescoes get damaged) and its museum with a big golden rooster from its pulpit (no pictures); at least it was free today. and the 16C palacio de guzmanes, of one of the two major rival families of Leon, the other being quinones (amazingly we could take pictures here). I took a walk along Leon's romanesque walls with round towers, and took a peek at the curious circular roman wall-cum-tunnel. I was surprised by the number of green areas around the historical centre.

take care!

it is true, really, I am wearing my woollen jacket in the mornings!

Fromista - Carrion de los Condes

I interrupted the uninteresting Senda with visits to two small romanesque churches and then decided that I have enough of parallel road walking and hit it for Villovieco. when I was resting in its park, an older men came along, offered me bonbons and a sello for my credencial. he said that he was from a group of local elders who restaured the church and tend to the few pilgrims who walk this alternative route. he dissapeared for some minutes and reappeared with tomatoes and carrots, distributing them between me and four other pilgrims who just arrived. he invited us to see the church and explained every detail. I was impressed with a 15C closet, though I think its decoration was probably of later date.

in Carrion I chose the albergue in the 13C monastery of Santa Clara but was very dissapointed. for 7 euros there was no kitchen except for one microwave, no cutlery, no plates, nothing but a little salt, and the machine for cold drinks was very dirty. I met some hilarious people, though. a Canadian who never left his city, never used an internet or an ATM, and was afraid of flying, who suddenly felt the urge to go to Camino, and after four months of going over the flying fear, he went. a Belgian who walked from his doorway and was has been more happy in the north of France where he stayed with the local families but found his 'family' on the route as well, and another Belgian who got almost eaten by bedbugs in the new albergue in Burgos.

Carrion de los Condes - Ledigos

the infamous straight Via Traiana with unpleasant round dark red stones was everything I remember it to be. but the weather was very kind, the wind was blowing and the clouds were sailing across the sky, obscuring the sun. I actually had to rest in the sun, it was so cold! the albergue in the small village of Ledigos was in a former farm with a patio, had a kitchen with a beautiful adobe oven, a tiny shop, and was very friendly. I dined with a mother and a daugther from Switzerland. the mother is walking the whole way, but because her children don't have that much time, they take turns and each of them accompanies her for a week. in that day's newspaper I happened upon a full page picture and an article of the very man from Ledigos who so kindly accepted us and showed us the church!

I also learned that the original Camino didn't go through the village but a little to the south of it, where have once stood a medieval bridge and a hospic. it also bypassed Terradillos de los Templarios who got its name after the brook flowing through it and that the templars where actually stationed in the next village of Moratinos.

Ledigos - Sahagun

in San Nicolas de Real Camino I asked for a direct route to Grajal de Campos, which is off route to the south. a local elder drew me a map and after two hours of glorious walking amidst rolling wheat fields (I did felt the starters of a tendenitis coming, it must have been Via Traiana) I visited the amazing 16C Palacio del Conde. I had an individual guided tour and learned that the Conde was given the title of King of the Hippopotamuses for his battles in Tunis, had the splendid stairway of Italian stone built by the circle of Leonardo da Vinci, and the wood for the artezonado ceilings brought from America, had three doors in the dining room so that servants could come and go uninterrupted, and had an underground tunnel built to connect the palace with the castle nextdoor where the army was stationed (the tunnel really does exist, the upper supporting arches are today visible above ground). I got to carress a white owl who took refuge in the attic, too. its feathers were incredibly soft. the albergue is planned to open here in 2-3 years in the former palace prison.

as there was no other way but the road to Sahagun and I didn't want to provoke the tendenitis, I hitchhiked. the first car that came by took me directly to the door of the small and welcoming albergue of madres benedictinas.

Sahagun - Calzadilla de Hermanillos

a smaller stretch of 18km (I felt that before hitting the plains to Mansilla it could be wise to calm down the tendenitis with a long rest) through the wild scrubland to the solitary village of Calzadilla was a prelude to the vast plains for the next day. I thought it could happen that I would be alone in the albergue, which was small but complete, with a kitchen, a washing and a drying machine. I wasn't alone but four of nine people who slept there got lost and came there by mistake. the pilgrim book was full of such stories. I think it strange because you really need to be vigilant to find that alternative way. the authorities try to keep everyone on the official Senda. the party was one of the best on the route. a Spanish guy who started from here this year and just returned from Santiago to drive back home (he left his car in the village), told us that the crowds in Galicia were such that he never saw a single albergue from the inside because he always had to sleep in the sparts halls. I very much hope that these crowds finish the route before I get there.

oh, almost forgot to mention the absolutely amazing sunrise! with the sunrays forming a scallop shell and all!

Calzadilla de Hermanillos - Mansilla de las Mulas

a glorious Calzada Romana with only me, the neverending fields, the sky above, and Cordillera Cantabrica on the horizon. oooh. 20km of pure bliss. :-)

the weather was nice, too, being cloudy and cool until midday. on the way I decided to go all the way to Mansilla, to the friendly albergue I remembered from before. its formidable hospitality reached another dimension when the hospitaleras took me on a ride to the monasteris of San Miguel de Escalada and Santa Maria la Real de Gradefes! I was only inquiring if there is a bus to San Miguel, and since there is none, they must have decided that I looked to fragile to hitchhike, and that they (suddenly) wish to see the monasteries, too. it was definitely worth going, San Miguel has an almost unique moorish and mozarabic architecture (they are not the same!) with horseshoe arhces, clean lines and geometric designs, and one of only three black marble columns in Spain. they say that if you touch them your way will be a lucky one. and in Gradefes I did manage to locate two curious stonemason's marks in a form of a bird's head, and many others, also quite illustrious.

Mansilla de las Mulas - Leon

I felt strangely sleepy on the route today. I could easily have just laid down and fell asleep, or slept while walking. I don't feel sick, though, maybe I just really need a good night's sleep, after all the snoring and security lights of many previous nights. the last part I walked with Gerry from Ireland, and the conversation managed to keep me awake till we reached the albergue municipal. I got a single room (it is actually a triple but I am the sole occupant) and slept almost 4h. so, I am probably staying another day in Leon so that I can actually visit the city. and get two nights of good sleep. I bet my legs will get a kick out of it. :-)

I made two trips to Carrefour in the neighbourhood because I forgot my wallet in albergue (yes, sometimes even I need a little shopping splurge, and some choice of foods). my legs are holding that against me now and I gave up the evening trip to the historic centre. snif. I do feel sleepy again, too, so I would probably not go anyway.

take care!

still no pics. :-( and it seems that it will stay that way. :-( and I'll have to buy another memory card.

Atapuerca - Burgos

my lovely map enabled me to make a beautiful solitary route over Sierra de Atapuerca that dropped me directly to Cardeñuela Riopico which was not according to the map but I didn't complain. :-) I grew wings instead and the short stretch of tarmac seemed nothing. the second alternative route between the motorway and airfield is becoming more popular but still I managed to avoid most of the pilgrims by taking a more dirt and grassy alternative to gravel road. so I managed to get to Burgos almost entirely on footpaths. which is quite an achievement!

on the way I visited Cartuja de Miraflores with an absolutely outstanding masterpiece of gothic sculpture, a marble tomb of Juan II de Castilla and Isabel de Portugal and the tomb of their son Alfonso, all by Gil de Siloe of the 15C, for which even the architects of Escorial admitted that they did not achieve much with their palace. it is sculpted on three or four layers and incredibly detailed.

Burgos

I stayed in albergue parroquial a little out of the centre and therefore not so popular. so, as my knees and ancles needed a rest day, I was able to sleep one more night. the hospitalera there is wonderful, we had dinners and breakfasts togehter, sang songs...

as it was monday only some monuments were open. the cathedral, of course, which I visited at leasure. but I must say that, after seeing Gil de Siloe's tombs, no gothic monument will be the same again. only the beautiful main cupola in the cathedral could mach that masterpiece. I peeked into iglesia san Nicolas to see the floor to ceiling stone retablo from 1505, and took turns around beautofully preserved 15C Casa del Cordon, another rare example of medieval civil architecture.

Burgos - Hornillos del Camino

the start was very at leasure because Monasterio de las Huelgas didn't open until 10h. I visite the post office on the way and got rained on. it is amazing how the feeling of the big city dissapears when you enter the fortified gates little town around the monastery.

the monastery. oh, the mozarabis decoration - or, what is left of it - is amazing. comparable to the tombs above :-). and the clothes from royal tombs of 12-14C! I drooled round so long that they almost had to kick me out. but, no pictures! not even without flash! so I can never show you what treasures are held there. I was so dissapointed.

I continued through the beautiful meseta until the lovelly and peaceful village of Hornillos, that has preserved its medieval layout along the Camino since medieval times.

Hornillos del Camino - Castrojeriz

another day of beautiful meseta walking (I don't remeber half of the route to Castojeriz, I was walking in the night four years ago, and it's really a pity, that), topped with the warm welcome and a second breakfast at San Bol, and the peaceful ruins of monastery of san Anton. I saw the Tau this time, too.

the albergue I wanted to stay in Castrojeriz was closed. I stayed in the municipal one and got a whole chorus of snoring in the night. thank you so much for the ear plugs, Anne! I was too tired to climb to the castillo on top of it but I did visit the cloister of iglesia san Juan, it has a very fine 15C painted wooden mudejar ceiling.

Castrojeriz - Fromista

the climb to Alto Mostelares that evereyone seems to be so afraid of really is not such a big deal. I took time to enjoy the view from the last mountain I am going to see for some time. and I took a long rest on the top of the last hill of Tierra de Campos, too. jsut enjoying the view of the plains. :-)

in Boadilla I was lucky to see the fine carved 14C baptistery, and, of course, the beautiful 15C carved rollo. and even some piegons inhabiting one of the palomars.

I wanter to sleep in Fromista so that I could take time to appreciate the sculptured corbels of iglesia san Martin. wow! not only they are very numerous, they are also incredibly well preserved!

and now the library with free internet closes. you have to be a little smug to find free internet because in albergues it is not free, of course. :-)

take care!

I have a dillema to solve. tommorrow there is a sort of a medieval day in Atapuerca, celebrating the battle of 1054, in which king Garcia III de Navarra was killed by the troops of his brother Fernando I de Castilla. should I stay or should I go on?

Redecilla del Camino - Villafranca Montes de Oca

I could't decide where to sleep that day so I said to myself, I'll walk and if I feel like staying in a village on the way, I'll stop. the route was dull until Belorado, we had to walk along the national road, on a separate gravel track, but the trucks and cars were nevertheless passing too close to really enjoy the route. the weather was kind, though, hiding the sun behind a thick veil of clouds, and we even had some drops of rain here and there. the ruins of the castle above Belorado looked impressive. I contended myself with looking while I was having a rest in the main square. after Belorado the colour of the soil changed from deep red to orange and I passed the strange looking hills above Tosantos. its chapel excavated in those hills, looked upon the route until the next village which, though small, had its own little green park with flowers, benches, and fountain. passing the cleaned remains of the 6-9C monastery of San Felices I arrived in Villafranca Montes de Oca.

here I wanted to stay in the new albergue in the hotel but when I asked the villagers showed me the municipal one. it was the first one with the really sympathic hospitaleros on Camino Frances. they opened the front door for me, helped to unload my backpack, carried it to my bed, and helped with all sorts of info for the route to Burgos. I was one of the few lucky persons who was  given a superb map of Sierra de Atapuerca and many path crisscrossing it. this enabled me to make a few detours the next day.

Villafranca Montes de Oca - Atapuerca

the longer days left some peinful muscles in my legs and I decided that Atapuerca could be the perfect stay for today. I took it leisurely through Montes de Oca, this time often shadowed by trees (I remember them as very hot place but I was walking in the afternoon then). the church of San Juan de Ortega was open and I could endulge in the finely carved tomb of the saint.

from Ages I made a detour to menhir in a place called Fin del Rey, where reputedly king Garcia was killed. it was about 1km off route in a field in a secluded glade, with no house or other pilgrim in sight. a very special place. the two dolmens afterwards I couldn't find (at least not the dolmens I am used to, with two supporting vertical slabs and one horizontal over them) - I did find a mound that may be covering one of them.

after watching two movies on our prehistoric ancestors (Atapuerca is known as the place where one of the most ancient remains of Homo sapiens are being discovered) I am enjoying the free internet in its interpretation centre.

and tommorrow to Burgos!

take care!

there is a bit weird setting on this computer, so I am not sure how this will come out when you read it. be patient. :-)

Viana - Navarette

practically all the way to Logrono I was contemplating how to solve my problem with photos. I headed straight to the tourist office and they gave me an adress for a free! computer. it was right next door so I occupied one of the availables for 2h, and I think I did manage to download the photos to one USB. I'll have to check because after 2h they kindly asked me to free the computer. um.

the museum I wanted to visit was closed for renovation. so was the post office in the centre. I made a little stroll, saw Santiago Matamoros, and bought two cards for photos. then I headed on cause I kinda didn't feel like staying. the route out of Logrono is still tarmac but they rerouted it and now it runs through various green park areas with plenty of fountains. I could again appreciate the big black bull and saw that a few wooden crosses from four years ago expanded to a whole forest.

the albergue in Navarette was a three-storey affair and I slept in the attic. the hospitaleros were very kind, their teenage daughter already taking care of everything. she carried my backpack to the attic for me. I liked Navarette with its curved streets much better than Viana.

Navarette - Azofra

the romanesque portal of the ruined San Juan de Acre hospital was a dissapointment, as only one of the capitals was actually sculpted - the one with the slaying of the dragon. where did the rest of them go, I have no idea - I really wanted to see the pilgrims sharing a bocadillo and washing each other's hair.

I remember the route to Najera as very loong one. although this time I started from Navarette, it was still long. there, I visited the monastery again. but the late 15C coro, which I most wanted to see (and take photos of), is open only in the afternoon. sigh. I headed on.

the new albergue in Azofra had small rooms with double beds. my bed was a bit hard, though, and I didn't sleep very well.

Azofra - Redecilla del Camino

strange peins inhabited my legs the first 10km today but luckily they calmed down when I took a rest after Cirueña. there is now a soulless new housing complex before the village, lined to the golf course there, but it does have a fouintain. I couldn't go past the cathedral in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. it was free this time and I could take photos which was good because the sculpted capitals are really well preserved.

I decided to prolong my route for  today a little bit and walk all the way to Redecilla where I will hopefully have a chnace to see the romanesque baptistery. I did see it.

I have to run to dinner now. take care!

it seems that getting the photos from my camera is going to be a big issue here. nothing works.

Los Arcos - Viana

they told me this morning that there was a fiesta in front of albergue, with loud music and singing and dancing. I don't remember anything. I was sound asleep till about 5am when a loud snorer woke me up. there were beautiful clouds in the sky in the morning but they dissapeared later and the day became as hot as ever.

I visited the little church in Torres del Rio again. this time I especially noticed the little windows under the roof, each decorated with a different kind of stone tracery. very beautiful. the few capitals decorated with human scenes are also very well preserved.

I walked part of the way with a newly graduated art and movie director from London. he studied in Corpus Cristi College and has the access to their library, which holds the second biggest collection of manuscripts in Britain, for life. for life!

take care!