Posted by camino-medieval
at 11:22 AM on August 22, 2009
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I have a dillema to solve. tommorrow there is a sort of a medieval day in Atapuerca, celebrating the battle of 1054, in which king Garcia III de Navarra was killed by the troops of his brother Fernando I de Castilla. should I stay or should I go on?
Redecilla del Camino - Villafranca Montes de Oca
I could't decide where to sleep that day so I said to myself, I'll walk and if I feel like staying in a village on the way, I'll stop. the route was dull until Belorado, we had to walk along the national road, on a separate gravel track, but the trucks and cars were nevertheless passing too close to really enjoy the route. the weather was kind, though, hiding the sun behind a thick veil of clouds, and we even had some drops of rain here and there. the ruins of the castle above Belorado looked impressive. I contended myself with looking while I was having a rest in the main square. after Belorado the colour of the soil changed from deep red to orange and I passed the strange looking hills above Tosantos. its chapel excavated in those hills, looked upon the route until the next village which, though small, had its own little green park with flowers, benches, and fountain. passing the cleaned remains of the 6-9C monastery of San Felices I arrived in Villafranca Montes de Oca.
here I wanted to stay in the new albergue in the hotel but when I asked the villagers showed me the municipal one. it was the first one with the really sympathic hospitaleros on Camino Frances. they opened the front door for me, helped to unload my backpack, carried it to my bed, and helped with all sorts of info for the route to Burgos. I was one of the few lucky persons who was given a superb map of Sierra de Atapuerca and many path crisscrossing it. this enabled me to make a few detours the next day.
Villafranca Montes de Oca - Atapuerca
the longer days left some peinful muscles in my legs and I decided that Atapuerca could be the perfect stay for today. I took it leisurely through Montes de Oca, this time often shadowed by trees (I remember them as very hot place but I was walking in the afternoon then). the church of San Juan de Ortega was open and I could endulge in the finely carved tomb of the saint.
from Ages I made a detour to menhir in a place called Fin del Rey, where reputedly king Garcia was killed. it was about 1km off route in a field in a secluded glade, with no house or other pilgrim in sight. a very special place. the two dolmens afterwards I couldn't find (at least not the dolmens I am used to, with two supporting vertical slabs and one horizontal over them) - I did find a mound that may be covering one of them.
after watching two movies on our prehistoric ancestors (Atapuerca is known as the place where one of the most ancient remains of Homo sapiens are being discovered) I am enjoying the free internet in its interpretation centre.
and tommorrow to Burgos!
take care!
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