Caminar ala medieval

oh, yes, the chocolate was very good. 53% dark one, with almonds. mmm.

Astorga - Rabanal del Camino

for me, quite long tarmac and along-the-road section out of Astorga ended in Murias de Rechivaldo, where I turned off road to visit Castrillo de los Polvazares, much famed for its picturesqueness. the route there was certainly fine (dirt and grass), despite my near escapade to a dog-full kind-a-farm. but the still almost sleepy village with its orange houses was almost too well restaured. it lacked in an authenticity a bit.

the second along-the-road slog then a climb to Rabanal was better and I was so fast that albergue Gaucelmo was not yet even open. it is taken care of by the British association of st James and it was very nice to hear proper english spoken. very friendly, and with a huge orchard. but not the former hospital of st Gregorio as it is said in all the guidebooks, it was a school before. the hospital was a little higher or a little lower, depending on who I asked.

Rabanal del Camino - El Acebo

the first really beautiful mountaneous day since the Pyrenees! the path/track climbed over pastures and through bushes and even through forests. the views to the east and south amazing. pure joy. :-)

at Cruz de Fierro I had to wait 10min to take a photo without pilgrims, as a group of Spanish bicyclists occupied it for groups photos shootings.

Tomas from Manjarin drew me a map how to reach Peñalba de Santiago from El Acebo, and I had the chance to see the 11 o'clock templar oration. with a very special belssing for me, for taking the route less travelled and more beautiful. and more ancient. it was very special.

very friendly albergue parroquial in El Acebo was taken care of by a German and a Swiss lady, the German lady particuraly chatty and always with a smile. we were granted a beautiful sunset, as well, with all the palette from yellow to deep red to violet.

El Acebo - Peñalba de Santiago

the biggest adventure started in the morning. I didn't follow Tomas' advice for a path because one of the villagers said it is quite difficult to follow. so I took the road. but I should have taken the path, it seemed to be even waymarked. Herreria (roman-medieval-19C iron foundry) was closed but I did see the big water wheel. the road to Compludo was still in shade, unlike the climb out of it, which was all in the plain sun, hot despite the morning. when I reached the top, a fine view opened. Espinoso de Compludo is on the same hight as El Acebo, I only had to descend to and climb of a steep and deep valley in between. I asked for directions and had no problems finding the path over the pastures to San Cristobal (there was even a signpost somewhere in the middle).

in San Cristobal I rested in the shade of a beautiful ancient 'tejo', said to be at least 3000 years old. the peace under its branches was very special.

the route out of San Cristobal to Peñalba was also not difficult to find, though I did hear that people did get lost here. you couldn't get lost, it is all straight. I met a car with a poodle hanging out of the window, with its ears in the wind. and then came the last turn around a ridge. and I lost my breath. the view was incredible! mountain slopes covered in green bushland and above them rocky ridges, and a narrow valley with a silver twisting road, and a village with dark silver roofs perched on one of the slopes, with one of the rocky ridges towering above. oh! I just looked and looked.

when I managed to continue I couldn't wait to reach this beautiful village. even the first few looks proved that it is just perfect. still lived in, light grey stone houses with dark grey slate roofs and brown balconies, mostly restored, but with taste, and so lovely, and from everywhere the mountain peaks peeking between the houses. oh.

I found an albergue turistico, in one of the houses, very friendly, with fruits and self-service breakfast, and maps of the walks in the area. and the lady unlocked the church for me, too, though it was officially closed. very elegant it was, with its moorish arches (no pics allowed, sadly). it has original frescoes and a whole lots of medieval scribblings along the walls, monks and dogs included.

I was soo very happy to come here. :-D

Peñalba de Santiago - Ponferrada

in the morning I almost decided to stay one more day. :-)

the climb out of the village to the cave of san Genadio is pretty, but the Valle del Silencio is not silent at all, the torrent there is very loud and playful. and then the climb to the mountain pastures on 1300+m, with more amazing views back to the village and along the valley. a surprising labyrinth of stones greeted me on top. and then the incredibly steep descend to a gorge with incredibly picturesque brook, and a roman road to the village of Montes de Valdueza. here Mirasol opened the huge church for me, because the monastery, another ancient center of christianity in the area, was under restauration.

another (or perhaps the same) beautiful roman road lead me along the slopes where I met a shepherd with four dogs and sheep lead me down to the valley floor. here I felt like a true medieval pilgrim. lost in these incredible places, but still with a road under my feet that will lead me to a safe place.

more valley walking and climbing and descending and climbing and desceding over beige and brown hills (where I lost Ruta de los Monjes) to San Esteban with two lovely carved and painted wooden doors. and more climbing and a looong track, which at least provided a fine view of Ponferrada at the end, to descend to Ponferrada.

a magnificent but very hard day, I reached albergue in Ponferrada at 20.15.

Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo

wanted to visit the Templar castle in the morning. but it opened only at 11h and I decided that that much I do not want to see it and continued the route. opposite of yesterday, it was quite boring, flat, tarmac, almost all till Cacabelos, which is actually quite a lovely village with a long main street. from Pieros the route has been rerouted and now runs between hilly vineyards, and is 3km longer. I didn't know that or I would have decided to stay in Cacabelos and not pushed another long day. but here I am, in another pretty little town, in a pretty albergue La Piedra, resting my feet.

take care!