Caminar ala medieval

ooo, I do apologize that you had to wait for soo long for the culminating ending, I ran out of time in the library in Fisterra, then in Santiago there were so many things to do (shopping ;-)) that I had no time to go to internet.

jep, you read it correctly, it's Fisterra. and jep, you remember correctly, too, I said I will be staying in Santiago for two days and I did. so, did I take a bus? nope. did I walk? jep. and you won't believe that. I made it in two days!!! ... yes, you are free to say I am 'loca'.

Santiago - Vilaserio

the morning was beautiful, the eucalyptus forests smelled wonderful, I met a Spanish couple who were told to say hello in Olivier's name, and the Pull was very strong. considering all this I decided I may as well try to do the long part on the first day (my plan was 5 days: Santiago - Negreira - Santa Marina - Olveiroa - Redonda - Fisterra). when I came to Negreira the albergue was already full, so it was an easy decision to go on to Vilaserio. it was its 35km, however, and lots of it on tarmac, so I was pretty tired when I finally arriver to a full refugio in a former school. I couldn't believe it, this refugio is almost never full. one of the Spanish girls lent me her thin matress and I made my bed on the table, the only place left. but the night was very long, the table incredibly hard, and I am sure I got some bruises on my hips and other bones. in all, I started at first dawn (which is not that early in Spain, only about 7.30).

Vilaserio - Fisterra

I was full of energy even after the unfortunate night and with the goal of two days walk somewhere in the back of my mind - I was not yet quite decided where I wish to sleep tonight, the first port was Olveiroa, the second Redonda -, I walked quite fast. I watched the cold morning mists linger in the valleys and welcomed the warm wind on top of the hills. I surprised a four-legged animal with a wide bushy tail - I think it was a fox! I eat breakfast in A Mola then made another rest at the church with the galleried cemetery in Corzon. here I decided to skip Olveiroa and go to the next albergue in Redonda (Corcubion). although the route till now was very tarmac, the portion between Olveiroa and Cee runs over almost mountains and high moors and is very very beautiful. I knew I could make that. and there was also this strange urging feeling to go on and that strange energy that did not let me rest for too long.

the scenery on the climb from Olveiroa to Hospital is amazing, I can't believe I missed all that on my first Camino (then the day began when I reached Hospital)! there I fortified myself with bocadillo con queso y tomate and met two Spanish pilgrims, who (again) asked me if I will go all the way to Fisterra that day. I said that probably not because I am already quite tired. but the strange energy increased over the moors and somehow the thought of continuing to Fisterra didn't want to be subdued. when I first glimpsed the rocky peninsula in the distance a strange longing filled my heart. so there really was no other option and while drinking and resting at San Pedro Martir I decided to continue. suddenly the urge calmed down and I was at last more at peace. and could continue in a more tranquil way, although still in a faster pace.

I took another rest in Cee and went shopping in Corcubion. I bought dark cholocalte with almonds, thinking that I might be able to enjoy the sunset over Fisterra bay if I reach the viewing point in time. my legs didn't feel tired and I took this as a proof that my decision to continue was right. there were still two more hours to the viewing point which I reached not in time for the actual sun setting but in time for the lovely rainbow of warm evening colours. and for a group of dolphins playing and jumping out of the sea in the bay! I sat on the rock and watched and watched, and felt complete. I reached my destination. I didn't need to go any further.

when I made the last kms to albergue in Fisterra it was plain night. amazingly, there were still beds left! I was tired by then, of course, the day has been long and I walked 14 hours. but I felt very happy, and very calm. it was as Olivier has said. when you become the Camino, anything can happen.