|Posted by camino-medieval on September 25, 2012 at 11:20 AM|
Sanitago - Vilaserio
a hearty breakfast to set me on the way for this long day. knowning the route amazingly kept it shorter (normally it gets longer because you remember things by not remembering some parts of them; makes sense?). the weather held up, with the wind getting stronger as the day got older. in Vilaserio I headed straight to albergue municipal in the old school (owners of the private albergue deny its existance if asked), and to my pleasant surprise it improved! there are now three beds, one with a proper canvas and two with a matress. I occupied one of the small rooms on the upper floor. at first it looked as if I would be alone, but by late afternoon four more pilgrims arrived and installed themseves on the ground floor on the matresses.
Vilaserio - Olveiroa
the night was wild. the wind was unbelievable, blowing sideways and horizontal, and forcing the stormy rain to follow the same direction. it was also whistling through some holes in the building. I was hoping very much it will improve by morning.
morning was a bit calmer. the wind didn't blow all the time, there were 'only' strong gusts that were bending the trees and moved me around the route. quite literally. about half way to Olveiroa it started to get even stronger and longer and was joined by heavy downpours. I wisely decided to stay in albergue xunta in Olveiroa. I say wisely because, not long after I showered, whole hell broke loose and didn't stop well into the night.
Olverioa - Fisterra
I woke up about 3h30 and it was calm outside. that was a good sign.
morning was gray and cloudy, but nothing like yesterday. I headed across the beautiful mountains and moors that run almost interrupted from Olveiroa to Cee. on the way Robert from USA joined me and we discussed our equipment, diets, fountains, and petroglyphs (there are supposed to be the remains of a petroglyph on a rock along the way, but we couldn't find it).
the route is now waymarked all the way through Corcubion which was having a fiesta that day, with a mass, a small orchestra, and firecracers.
all day the sun was trying really hard to get through the clouds, popping out for a few moments here and there. but when I - finally! - reached my favourite spot - a rock with the first and beautiful panorama of the Fisterra bay spreading out ahead - the clouds somehow disappeard from above, the sky was blue, and the whole bay basked in the sunshine! it was amazing!
and then another pilgrim came along, the sun hid behind the clouds and it was all gray again. is that magic?
an obligatory day in Fisterra. this time cloudy, windy and drizzly. I transferred to a private albergue with a kitchen (there are lots of these now in Fisterra but only a couple have a kitchen), climbed up to Monte Facho and its three summits of white rocks called Piedras Santas (it was blowing fiercly, too), there encountered four mares with curious foals, descended back to santa Maria in Fisterra (and was lucky some german pilgrims were having a mass inside and could pop in), waited out a heavy shower in albergue, went for the obligatory paseo along the beach in search of scallop shells (I found plenty and huge ones, too, the heavy winds must have torn out lots of seaweed attached to various shells), and found a free internet in CeMIT while the library is being renovated.
and, I encountered an austrian guy who walked the camino in full medieval regalia! clothes, cape, hat, leather water bag, home-made linen backpack, and shoes!!! I was impressed. unofrtunatelt he was leaving that day and I couldn't bombard him with all the questions I wanted to.